[wordup] The Lizard, the Catacombs, and the Clock

[Adam Shand]

Via: Chris O'Donoghue
Source: http://brickmag.com/current/excerpt1.html

The Lizard, the Catacombs, and the Clock: The Story of Paris’s Most
Secret Underground Society
Sean Michaels

“It’s a war of knowledge. Whoever knows the most is king.”
—Crato

Entrances

On August 23, 2004, they discovered a cinema sixty feet beneath Paris.
     The sun was shining on the Trocadéro, the Eiffel Tower gleamed
across the Seine, and deep below ground, police came across a sign.
The officers were on a training mission, exploring the 4.3 miles of
catacombs that twist beneath the 16th arrondissement. The former
quarries are centuries-old, illegal to enter, and the sign at the
mouth of the tunnel read, “No public entry.” Police are not the
public; they entered. Their headlamps flashed against the limestone
walls and then suddenly the officers were surrounded. Invisible dogs
snarled and barked from all sides. The men’s hearts hammered. They
froze in their tracks. They cooed canine comforts into the dark.
     In time, the officers’ lights found the PA system. They found the
stereo, with guard-dog yowls burned onto a CD. They found three
thousand square feet of subterranean galleries, strung with lights,
wired for phones, live with pirated electricity. The officers
uncovered a bar, lounge, workshop, dining corner, and small screening
area. The cinema’s seats had been carved into the stone itself, with
room for twenty people to sit in the cool and chomp on popcorn.
     On the floor of one cavern, officers discovered an ominous metal
container. The object was fat, festooned with wires. The police called
in the bomb squad, they evacuated the surface, they asked
themselves,What have we found?
     They had found a couscous maker.
     A few days after the couscoussière incident, officers returned to
the scene. This time they brought agents from Électricité de France.
But they were too late. Already someone had undone the galleries’
wiring, disappeared with the equipment, vanished with the booze. What
had so recently been a private cinema, a secret hideout, was now just
an empty quarry. The cinema’s makers had left a note. “Ne cherchez
pas,” they wrote. Don’t search.
     Don’t search? For what? For whom? While the Agence France Presse
reported a possible “extreme right-wing” connection, the BBCspeculated
on a full-fledged “underground movement.” All of Paris dreamed of its
subterranean screening society.
     However, the people responsible for the cinema under the
Trocadéro, a place they dubbed the Arènes de Chaillot, are not quite
any of these things. “We are the counterpoint to an era where
everything is slow and complicated,” they explain. This group also
balances the aspect of today that is instant and shameless,
hysterically tweeting. They are patient, serious, and they keep their
secrets.
     After the cinema episode, it would be two years until the city
would see their work again.

Porte-parole

I am late. Paris’s decaying public-transit system almost strands me at
Gare du Nord and I arrive at Le Pantalon out of breath, panicked,
terrified that Lazar Kunstmann has left. I slip past students in this
noisy bar, searching for the face I have seen in a handful of
photographs. I crossed the ocean to meet him and I may not get another
chance.
     Lazar Kunstmann is stocky, in his late thirties. He has a shaved
head. He is friendly. Too friendly, almost—the eagerness in his eyes
seems utterly unclandestine. This is not the mystery man I envisioned:
Kunstmann is warm, cheerful, and talkative.
     He first appeared in 2004, the mouthpiece for a group called La
Mexicaine de Perforation (LMDP). Though it literally translates as
“the Mexican of the Drilling,” their moniker is best understood as
something like “The Mexican Consolidated Drilling Authority.” The
organization was named for a bar in the 16th arrondissement’s Place de
Mexico.LMDP, Kunstmann revealed, was responsible for the cinema under
the Trocadéro.
     “Two-thousand four was the first big discovery,” Kunstmann
admits. “We were really caught in flagrante delicto.”
     I was living in Scotland at the time. The French and British
press were enraptured with the underground cinema and so was I. The
appeal wasn’t just in the breadth of the cinema-builders’ imagination
but in their meticulous follow-through. “We covered our tracks,”
Kunstmann reassured The Guardian. “Short of digging up every cable in
the district there’s no way of knowing where we took [the electricity]
from.”
     Giddy and well spoken, Kunstmann was at the centre of every
article. He had spent decades going where he wasn’t supposed to:
climbing onto roofs at age seven, sneaking through the subway at
twelve, delving into the Paris catacombs at fourteen. He and his
co-conspirators met at school in the 1980s, when many Latin Quarter
colleges still had basement access into the tunnels. Although
Parisians have been sneaking into the catacombs (known as carrières)
for centuries, Kunstmann and his friends had no taste for the usual
“cataphile” hijinks. Too young to drink, not interested in drugs, they
instead began to explore, map, and expand the underground network.
     Eventually, Kunstmann tells me, they entered a
“post-post-exploration phase.” After “you go, you survey—then it’s
time to do something.”
     Five years after the discovery of the cinema, Kunstmann has
written a book exposing the full scale of this “something.” In La
culture en clandestins: L’UX, published by the French imprint Hazan,
Kunstmann reveals LMDP as just one wing of a larger clandestine
organization calledUX. UX (pronounced “oo-eex,” like the French
letters) has more than one hundred members, split into more than ten
teams. While LMDP are dedicated to events, other branches are devoted
to maps, restoration, or key-making. “[We] are determined to make
these abandoned places a theater for new experiences,” Kunstmann
explains in his book. This means more than it seems. In French, the
word expériences connotes both “experiences” and “experiments.” UX
itself, an acronym for Urban eXperiences, borrows the double meaning.
     The Arènes de Chaillot were built over a period of eighteen
months. Starting in 1999 and continuing every summer until the
cinema’s discovery, the tunnels hosted Urbex Movies. It was a festival
combining careful programming and an unusual locale to present
discrete visions of urban life. Shorts and features were grouped by
unstated “intention,” to allow for each twenty- to thirty- person
audience “to discover, or merely to feel.” A similar philosophy
dominated LMDP’s other major film festival, the Sessión Cómoda.
Whereas Urbex Movies screened films like Eraserhead and Dziga Vertov’s
Man With A Camera, the Sessión Cómoda had a narrower focus on the
underground—showing The Third Man and Jacques Becker’s Le Trou. These
screenings took place nearby, but above ground—in the famous
Cinémathèque of the Palais de Chaillot. Which isn’t to say that the
Sessión Cómoda was part of the Cinémathèque’s official program.
No—LMDP snuck in, week after week, year after year, entering (they
claim) from a passage beneath the projectionist’s chair.
     For both festivals, audiences were drawn from among UX’s friends,
associates, and members of the public who stumbled across scattered
fliers. “The LMDP are simply interested in holding events in a free
way,” Kunstmann explains. “Clandestinity is really a detail.”
     It’s the detail that allows them to continue what they are doing.
UXslip past the functionaries, under the cordons, across miles of red
tape. Their high-concept installations use secrecy as a cover, but
it’s not their raison d’être. “We don’t seek out the forbidden,”
Kunstmann murmurs over radio-pop. “We just repudiate any notion of
authorization.”
     At the same time, UX’s anonymity is a major source of their
allure. We are drawn by their gall, their pluck, but also the
burnished gleam of a mystery. The Arènes de Chaillot would not be the
same treasure if they were sanctioned, public-funded. Kunstmann is
surely aware of this, yet he balks at being part of “something
‘plugged in,’ elitist, VIP.” UX do not wish to be a “secret society,”
he insists. “When I say secret society, you imagine, I don’t know,
like, in Eyes Wide Shut. But it’s more basic than that. It’s the
patronage system. It’s taking advantage of a hidden alliance.”
     The group’s operational need for clandestinity is offset by this
distaste for old boys’ clubs. And so UX leave avenues for strangers to
stumble across their works, they have published a book revealing
certain details, and years ago they resolved to never hide what was in
plain sight. This is why LMDP revealed themselves in 2004. Once the
Arènes de Chaillot were discovered, with speculation mounting—“In that
instant,” Kunstmann says, “we had to clearly explain.”
     They didn’t divulge everything.

D’Enfers

Parisians call it a gruyère. For hundreds of years, the catacombs
under the city have been a conduit, sanctuary, and birthplace for its
secrets. The Phantom of the Opera and Les Misérables’ Jean Valjean
both haunted these tunnels, striking students descended in 1968, as
did patriots during the Second World War. The Nazis visited too,
building a bunker in the maze below the 6th arrondissement.
     Honeycombed across 1,900 acres of the city, the vast majority of
the tunnels are not strictly speaking “catacombs.” They house no
bones. Limestone (and, to the north of the city, gypsum) quarries,
these are the mines that built Paris. The oldest date back two
thousand years to Roman settlers, but most were excavated in the
construction boom of the late Middle Ages, providing the stone that
became Notre Dame Cathedral and the Louvre. Riddling the Left Bank,
these tunnels were at first beyond the city’s southern limits. But as
Paris’s population grew, so did the city—and soon whole neighbourhoods
were built on this infirm ground.
     The first major cave-in happened in 1774, when an entire street
collapsed not far from where the Catacombs Museum stands today. After
a similar incident three years later, King Louis XVI created the
office of the Inspection Générale de Carrières (IGC, or General
Inspection of the Quarries), designated with preventing further
collapses. Officials went underground: inspecting, charting, filling
chambers with concrete, digging a new labyrinth of maintenance
tunnels.
     Then came the dead. In the late eighteenth century, Paris’s
overcrowded central cemeteries leaked. Fetid gases would waft into the
cellars of Châtelet, marinating wheels of brie and braids of
saucisson. Beginning in 1785 and for about a century, the government
enacted its grisly solution: it transported six million skeletons to
the southern quarries. Five per cent of the catacombs remain ossuaries
today, and Racine, Robespierre, and Marat are among the dry, dusty
residents.
     Entrances to the tunnels can be found in the basements of
hospitals, the cellars of bars, church crypts, subway tunnels, even at
the bottom of Paris’s tallest skyscraper. Many of these access points
have been sealed by the IGC, who both protect the city from the
catacombs, and the catacombs from the city. Circulating in the
carrières was made illegal in 1955.
     That didn’t stop the catacomb craze. By the time Kunstmann and
his friends were in college, almost every Latin Quarter party would
end below ground. The igc fought back, deploying a series of barrier
walls that criss-crossed the passages, blocking the flow of visitors.
The plan was good, but it only had so much effect: trespassers soon
found ways around—and through—the concrete blockades.
     By definition, Paris’s hundreds of catacomb ramblers, its
“cataphiles,” decline to follow the rules. They are an odd gang of
misfits—“urban explorers,” vandals, kids who just want to hang out
below ground. They chatter on online message boards, share and hoard
maps; they meander, explore, drink, and drill through walls. By night
they drop through manholes, or emerge from them, dusty, at dawn.
     Members of UX spend time underground, but Kunstmann insists they
are not cataphiles. It isn’t just a matter of style. “The principle of
UX is to provoke experiences using every available part of the city,”
he says at Le Pantalon. “Not as visitors but as users. Users for
something other than the simple aesthetic of the places. And for
something other than partying.”
     Their ideas are not new. It is Guy Debord’s détournement turned
loose on geography, Situationism without the politics, a no-nonsense
take on Britain’s art pranksters, the KLF. Yet these allusions betray
UX’s modest code—to do interesting things without permission. This
credo allows for superficial punkery, sneaking into backyards, but
considered seriously, it becomes a formula for being brave, for
pursuing dreams. Which is a sappy way of saying, It grabbed me.
     The first place I looked for UX was on Facebook. I typed “Lazar
Kunstmann” into the search box and hit enter. There were no results.
So I set my nets wider. I posted a message saying I was looking for
contacts in the Paris “underground,” figuratively and literally. I did
the same on Twitter. I emailed friends in Paris, types who organize
concerts in subway cars, asking similar questions. No one knew
anything of Kunstmann, or of UX.
     Next I scoured cataphile message boards, at least those that are
public. Although these forums had discussed the group’s works and
media coverage, I found no traces of UX’s authors. As Kunstmann later
scoffed, these boards are full of typical internet posturing—resentful
quips and knee-jerk lols.
     I finally found Kunstmann through private correspondence with
another journalist. They gave me an email address; that address told
me to telephone a secret number. I asked for “Lazar,” Kunstmann
answered, and we met at Le Pantalon.
     “Ordinary” cataphile contacts are less difficult to make. My
online searchlights were glimpsed by a friend of friends, pseudonym
Cavannus, who does “urban exploration” in Montreal. Cavannus put me in
touch with one of his cataphile pals in Paris—a man with a fake
Facebook account named for a celebrated guru. He tells me to meet him
at Saint Pierre de Montrouge church, to look for a guy “on crutches.”
Two days after meeting Kunstmann, as I ride the subway and climb up to
Alésia Square, there seem to be broken-legged people everywhere. I
imagine this as cataphile ground zero, a place where everyone has
limestone dust in their hair.
     The cataphile who meets me looks about thirty, his dark hair
pulled into a ponytail. He gestures at his crutches and says he
slipped coming out of a manhole, on the rain-soaked street. He is
called BVH.
     “Underground, everyone has a nickname,” BVH explains to me. He
didn’t choose his own, an acronym that refers to a famous department
store. Someone else picked it about a dozen years ago, and it stuck.
Other names are more esoteric, like Sork, or Crato, the man who
eventually takes me into the tunnels. Some conjure deliberate images.
One of the catacombs’ most notorious mischief-makers is Lézard Peint,
the Painted Lizard, a “devil” with alleged fascist connections, who
has been known to steal fellow cataphiles’ lights or to seal up their
intended exits.
     “What you are on the surface, you are underground,” Crato later
says, sucking on a cigarette. “When you are a violent person, given to
fighting—you’re the same below.” Scoundrels like Lézard aside, the
cataphile community is civil. “In general we look out for each other,”
BVH agrees. They share knowledge, lighters, cans of beer (never
bottles, which are still heavy when empty). “People know that if they
get too drunk or if they get hurt, it’ll be hard to get out.”
     BVH and Crato’s first descents were similar—they saw a hole, or
heard about a hole, and they entered. Telling me, BVH begins to cough.
“Sorry,” he wheezes, “I still have dust in my throat.” On that first
journey, he and his friends ran into some unlikely mentors—off-duty
police officers who offered to give them a tour—“and then I spent the
whole night underground.”
     BVH’s story is beguilingly simple. I could go, I realize. I could
find an entrance on the internet, slip inside, wander until I find an
off-duty police officer or a shy, kindly filmmaker. “It’s a very
supernatural setting,” BVHmurmurs. “You’re completely autonomous.
There’s no light. There’s no electricity. Just stones and water.”
     But I am here to understand UX and this is not the way that
UXworks. That group does not rely on word of mouth, happenstance, the
kindness of strangers. UX sets goals and quietly executes them. They
never get lost.
     I find Crato online, just as I found BVH. Whereas BVH,
becrutched, does not volunteer to play tour-guide, Crato—lanky,
vaguely grumpy—makes the offer. “There are a lot of reasons to go
down,” he allows. “There are those who want to find a calm and
pleasant spot. There are those who go down to meet a partner. There
are those who go to party. There are even those who go to watch
movies. Everyone has their own reasons.”
     We rendezvous on a bridge over train tracks. It’s the middle of
the afternoon, cars whizzing by, clouds meandering across a dirty blue
sky. We’re not far from Denfert-Rochereau, site of the official
Catacombs Museum. That plain stone building offers historical
displays, dioramas, entry onto a sanitized one-mile circuit of “legal”
catacombs. This is not, cataphiles emphasize, the “real thing.”
Besides—you have to pay admission.
     We look both ways and, one at a time, jump the bridge wall. It is
thick, high as my shoulders. My jump is less deft than Crato’s. I
struggle for a moment and then I’m over, feet in the weeds, scrambling
down the slope to the tracks. This is the Petite Ceinture, one of the
city’s abandoned railways. It is almost silent. We walk.
     Crato has been visiting the catacombs for ten years. He tells me
how the original quarries were built just wide enough for a man with a
wheelbarrow—six feet by three feet. How they are a permanent 55º
Fahrenheit, day and night, winter and summer. “I remember once it was
hot in Paris, really hot, really horrible. Instead of dining in an
overheated apartment, we went down into the catacombs to eat.”
     After a time, Crato and I come to a large train tunnel. The
sunlight falls away behind us. It is easy to trip on the wooden ties
of the tracks or on the irregular stones to either side. We turn on
our flashlights yet I can see neither end of the tunnel. I assume the
problem is fog, but Crato speaks of fumis, cataphile smoke-bombs, made
by mixing saltpetre with sugar and flour. They are hiding something
down here.
     Ten minutes into the gloom, Crato swings his flashlight to the
right. The darkness slips into focus. Before me, where the tunnel wall
meets the earth, is a hole.
     In 2009, this is the “grand entrance” to the catacombs. A craggy
break in the rock, no more than two feet wide. Cataphile refuse is
strewn nearby—empty beer cans, juice cartons, white paste from carbide
lanterns. This is just the second “grand entrance” that Crato has
known. One day the IGC will close it up, he says, fill it with
concrete like the last one. But Crato hopes his fellow cataphiles do
not dig a replacement straight away. Better to give the losers, the
troublemakers, time to get bored and find something else to do. The
committed ones already know different ways to get in. The committed
ones are patient. Even Crato seems to think that secrets are best.

Deeper

For Kunstmann and his associates, there is little appeal to wandering
around underground. Their cinema aside, the catacombs are a means, not
an end: a way to access UX work sites or to hide their tracks. But as
a first-time visitor plunging into these grey chambers, the experience
is thrilling. It is a labyrinth of branching channels and sudden
openings, cool and quiet. Most of the catacombs are dry, tall enough
to stand in—but from time to time we duck or crawl, or swish into
ankle-high water. Still, they are not the dank, sweaty caves I
imagined. Even wading into a passage called Banga, whose thigh-high
water swirls like miso soup, the tunnel’s soft silence recalls a
theatre, a wine cellar, an attic.
     In Kunstmann’s book, cataphiles like Crato are called “bodzaux,”
for their wet and dirty boots, or “Ravioli,” for their tendency to
dine on boxed dumplings. (“I prefer wine and sausage,” my guide
retorts.) Ravioli seek to “consecrate” the underground, Kunstmann
argues, guarding it from precisely the kind of transformation that UX
enjoy. “[They] are protecting an image [of the catacombs] and they
want to keep this image intact for the feelings it evokes in them.”
     Crato speaks of these feelings without actually speaking of them.
He talks about how years ago, he and his now-wife would spend all of
Saturday night in the tunnels, wandering until four in the morning.
They would emerge, dust themselves off, go to sleep—and on Sunday they
would walk the same route, retrace the same steps, above ground, hand
in hand.
     While this is a beautiful image, it is the opposite of what UX
hope to accomplish. “It’s a typically Parisian phenomenon,” Kunstmann
sighs. “Nostalgia for a period we didn’t know. Areas ‘flashed’ in
time. The work of UX is to de-flash, to thaw, to transform.”
     As Crato and I weave beneath the 14th arrondissement, the subway
murmurs in a passage over our heads. You could walk these caves in
jeans and sneakers, I think. I have read how the Painted Lizard has
ordered people to do the circuit naked for his own wicked
entertainment. I am in knee-high boots and a cardigan. Crato wears the
basic cataphile uniform: hip waders, waterproof backpack, strong
flashlight, gloves, a cap to keep off the dust. The athletics stores
of Paris, he says with a grin, sell a disproportionate number of
fishermen’s boots and impermeable packs.
     Although the catacombs are covered in graffiti tags, there are
also sudden instances of art—amateur gargoyles, carved castles,
life-sized sculptures of cataphiles. Crato brings me to La Plage, “the
beach,” a large gallery with a sand-packed floor. Our flashlights
sweep across wide murals: Hokusai waves and Max Ernst-like portraits.
In the Hall of Anubis we sit at a table chiselled out of stone. We
light candles, drink beer, share cookies and chocolate. I am
absolutely enchanted. I have no idea of the time.
     For the most part, cataphiles don’t dispute Kunstmann’s
characterization of them. BVH says his friends enjoy “taking photos,
exploring a particular area, repairing things, going to spots where no
one has visited for a long time.” The community’s holy grail, he
suggests, is to clandestinely enter the Catacombs Museum. I balk at
this—the same place you can visit for just eight euro, six days a
week? “Yes,” he agrees, “but that’s the goal of tons of cataphiles.
And they succeed almost every year—every year there’s a hole that’s
drilled.”
     When cataphiles do stage large events, they tend to be one-off
parties—not permanent “transformational” cinema installations. Crato
remembers someone bringing down oysters—stupid, silly, “just as heavy
on the way back as on the way down.” BVH has organized two
Breton-themed shindigs, where more than three hundred people joined
dancers, musicians, and amateur chefs cooking subterranean crêpes.
Among the largest celebrations was a farewell to Commandant
Jean-Claude Saratte in 2000. Head of the catacomb police for
twenty-one years, Saratte was respected for his knowledge, instincts,
and moderation—pursuing the drug user, vandal, or “tibia collector”
instead of the gentle catacomb geek.
     Today, officers of BICS (la Brigade d’Intervention de la
Compagnie Sportive) patrol the catacomb thoroughfares handing out €65
tickets. The catacops are regarded with resentment and disdain. But
they force cataphiles to be vigilant: listening, looking out for
standard-issue lights, sniffing for aftershave. It is illegal to drink
on public streets, Crato proposes, but not beneath them.
     “When you’re caught, you have the chance to recognize or not
recognize an infraction,” he explains to me. “If you choose the
latter, you’re supposed to get an appointment with a judge.” Crato has
been awaiting his court date for years—and counting down the days
until the automatic amnesty triggered by each presidential election.
     We emerge from the maze three hours later, flashlights still
shining, and again we are wreathed in smoke. It is dark as night. The
opening of the railway tunnel is a circle of gold-white light in the
far distance. Treading toward the open air, out and past the wild
bright green of the weeds, it’s as if we’re passing through stained
glass.
     On our way back along the tracks we meet a quartet of cataphiles
in black hoodies and running shoes, acquaintances of Crato’s. We talk.
The conversation is a mixture of bravado, feigned indifference,
outbursts of earnest feeling. They talk of girls, parties, police,
numbskulls with smoke bombs.
     These men seem so gentle. Watching them smile, UX’s rejection of
this community seems unkind. No, Ravioli are not engaged in the same
activities; no, their ambitions are not to the same scale. But if UX
want to be something other than a secret club, at least they could be
friendly with their neighbours.
     Kunstmann sees it differently. UX are absolutely unrelated to
these cataphiles, separate “from the start.” “We were learning from
one experience to another,” he says. “We had an intention for these
places.” Besides, his group is not based in the catacombs. As Paris
was to learn, they hide in the above ground as well.

Flying Saucer

On December 24, 2006, after fifty years of silence, the clock of the
Paris Panthéon began to ring.
     Two and a half years later, I arrive at the building for a tour.
My group’s guide is a man in his fifties, bird-haired, who talks in
clipped and concentrated French. He doesn’t mention the Panthéon’s
clock. Nor are there any references in the written program. After the
tour ends, as the other tourists disperse, I ask him a question:
“Didn’t something happen with this clock?” We are standing directly
beneath the three-foot minute hand.
     The guide looks startled. “There are these people . . .” he
begins to say. He does not make eye contact. “They infiltrated the
Panthéon.” This group had all the keys; he doesn’t know how. The clock
had been broken. They fixed it. They have also held plays here, and
projected films. He explains everything with a weird, wry solemnity,
like he both hates and relishes being asked. “Untergunther,” he says
finally, though he doesn’t know how to spell it. “Look it up on the
internet.”
     What the Internet will tell you is that the Untergunther are a
branch ofUX. Whereas the Mexican Consolidated Drilling Authority are
dedicated to events, the Untergunther are the organization’s
restorers. In September 2005 they came here, to one of Paris’s most
important monuments—and they went to work.
     The Panthéon was commissioned by Louis XV in 1744, as a tribute
to Saint Genevieve. By the time it was finished in 1789, the French
Revolution had guillotined the church idea. Instead, the domed
neo-classical cathedral became a mausoleum for great French citizens.
Voltaire, Rousseau, Émile Zola, and Victor Hugo are buried in its
crypt; so are Marie Curie, Louis Pasteur, and Louis Braille. In the
centre of the Panthéon’s floor, where architect Soufflot had imagined
a statue of Ste. Genevieve, Foucault’s pendulum swings. Tourists like
me come and gape at the way this simple experiment, commissioned by
Napoleon, offers evidence of the rotation of the planet. It is such an
unassuming marvel.
     Another modest wonder lies at the end of the main hall, on the
left, above a doorway. The Panthéon’s clock is not an elaborate
timepiece, like the Prague Orloj. The face is about as tall as a
person, mounted on frosted glass. The clock hands and roman numerals
look like they are made of cast iron. Built by the house of Wagner in
1850, it is plain, even austere. But for one year, this was the
Untergunther’s project.
     “[The Untergunther] have compiled a huge list of slowly degrading
places,” Kunstmann told a National Geographic reporter in 2006. “The
list is too big to ever be completed in our lives so each year we
choose [just] one.” The Untergunther have only three conditions for
accepting a restoration project. First, to have the technical ability.
Second, to have the means. And third, to have the desire. By 2009,
they claim to have completed about twelve projects, including the
Panthéon, a hundred-year-old government bunker, a twelfth-century
crypt, and a First World War air-raid shelter.
     “[We] are only interested in a very precise part of [French]
cultural inheritance,” Kunstmann writes in his book. “The part that is
non-visible.” These are not just places that are inaccessible or
hidden to the public, like the mechanisms of a clock, but also sites
that are invisible to their administrators. Since the city
administration scarcely has enough money to maintain what is in plain
view, UX suggest, they are doomed to ignore what is not.
     This is a beautiful idea, but only compelling if acted upon. The
Untergunther could be fakers, blowhards taking credit for conveniently
hidden restorations. Yet as with the LMDP and their rock-hewn cinema,
the endeavour at the Panthéon dismisses doubt.
     The Panthéon’s nineteenth-century clock had been broken since the
1960s, left to decay, but it caught the eye of a man called
Jean-Baptiste Viot. Viot is a clockmaker, formerly head of restoration
for the Swiss house Breguet. He is also a member of UX. Viot observed
the rust caked on the Wagner’s machinery and ruled that it was a “now
or never” moment. If the Pantheon’s clock were ever to tick again, it
would need the Untergunther’s help.
     On September 18, 2005, the group formally adopted the project.
Soon after, an eight-person “core”—including Viot and Untergunther
leader Lanso—went to work. Using a copied key, they infiltrated the
building after dusk, dodged security agents, and made their way up.
High above the clock that had lured them there, the Untergunther
arrived at a cavity along the base of the building’s dome. This dusty,
neglected space became their home.
     They called it the Unter und Gunther Winter Kneipe, the
Untergunther’s Winter Tavern, taking their inspiration from a door
marked UGWK. A similar whimsy had inspired the Untergunther’s naming,
back when they were just known as “the restoration wing.” Unter and
Gunther, Kunstmann says, were the names of the imaginary guard-dogs in
the Arènes de Chaillot’s security system.
     For the next twelve months, the Panthéon was the Untergunther’s
playground. They learned every nook and cranny, copied every key,
learned the habits of every guard. It was made easier by relatively
lax security. When I visited in 2009, there were still no real
security badges, and both of my tour guides failed to count the group
with their clickers. According to Kunstmann’s stories, UX had already
used the Panthéon to stage plays and other events; the Untergunther’s
residency was just a difference of scale, of persistence.
     First they had to figure out what was wrong with the clock.
TheUGWK became a makeshift library, stocked with books on vintage
timepieces and easy chairs that transformed into inconspicuous wooden
crates. Gradually the team concluded that one of the clock’s integral
components, the escapement wheel, had been sabotaged—likely by an
employee decades ago. The mechanism had eventually been replaced with
an electric mechanism, but this, too, had been sabotaged. Finally,
they learned that fully restoring the Wagner clock would not just mean
fiddling around behind its face—the antique mechanism had machinery
located in several different parts of the building.
     The “flying-saucer-shaped” atelier of the Untergunther became a
not-quite-state-of-the-art clockmaker’s workshop. The Untergunther
carried up thousands of euros in tools, materials, and chemicals. They
installed thick red curtains along its chilly outer wall, because,
Viot said, “a clockmaker can’t do anything with mittens on.” They
posed for photos among the Panthéon’s statues; they watched fireworks
from the roof; they made a new escapement wheel and cleaned the clock
machinery piece by piece.
     Usually, Kunstmann writes, sites restored by the Untergunther
remain “just as inaccessible and unknown as they were before their
repair.” The Untergunther do not need to trumpet their
accomplishments: they seek only the immediate satisfaction of renewing
part of their city. Often, the sites’ invisibility even shields them
from further damage. Alas for the Panthéon’s clock, this obscurity was
not to be.

Stopping Time

UX doesn’t have a blog. Members share a single email account. Lazar
Kunstmann is not on Facebook, and the group’s other members do not
speak to the press. In this era of full disclosure, of never-ending
networking, forwarding, and sharing, it is an organization that
refuses friend requests. Members have only as many contacts as they
require and they will not invite you to events.
     The group’s secrecy makes it hard to check their facts. Almost
everything one can check out does check out. For the rest, you have to
believe or disbelieve their claims. Kunstmann says the group has
between one hundred and one hundred and fifty members ranging from age
eleven to fifty-six. They are mostly professionals in their late
thirties and early forties. UX’s groups formed “by accident” in the
early 1990s, gradually formalizing and adopting names. They are the
product of “aggregation,” the regrouping of kindred spirits within
“the same, very reduced, geographic area.”
     Of the dozen teams that Kunstmann says exist, only three have
been revealed—LMDP, the Untergunther, and a group called the Mouse
House, recent inductees, allegedly an all-female “infiltration unit.”
All members benefit “from access to a [Paris-wide, universal,
integrated] map, all the possible keys, all the possible knowledge.”
By sharing resources, pooling expertise, everyone is able to “work
less for the same results, or to work the same amount for a better
result.”
     Viewed a certain way, UX offers the same thing as Wikipedia or
Google Earth—information for the community to do with as they please.
But whereas Wikipedia relies on the wisdom of the masses to perfect
its frustratingly imperfect data, while flash-mobs rally as many
participants as possible, UX remains private. They reject openness,
spurn crowds. The group’s discretion allows them to slip below the
authorities’ radar, to operate with impunity, but there is more to it
than that: by closing the network, they accomplish better works. There
is no need to screen a film before thousands, to trumpet mysteries
from the rooftops, to bring dancers and musicians and chefs making
crêpes. UX quietly create wonders, carefully rescue treasures. Members
are expected to be capable, informed, autonomous. “Everything is
dedicated to avoiding wasted time,” Kunstmann says. The doing, not the
discussion, is what matters.
     Because of this pragmatism, the Untergunther always knew they
would have to reveal their venture to the Panthéon staff. “If you want
a monumental clock to work, someone has to mount and maintain it,”
Kunstmann explains. Two, ten, or fifty years after the gears are set
in motion, they must still be regularly tended. “The logic always
being to minimize the amount of work for a given project; it’s a
conversation we had with the whole group. At a certain point, the
administrator would need to be clued in.”
     Standing with my tour guide under the clock’s black hands, I ask
him whether the mechanism still works.
     “No.”
     “Why not?”
     “Management took a piece away.”
     “Why?”
     I glimpse the tiniest sarcastic roll of the eyes. “Pfft. I don’t know.”
     At the end of September 2006, the Untergunther claim they met
with Bernard Jeannot, administrator of the Panthéon, and his assistant
Pascal Monnet. (In the book, Monnet’s name loses an n.) Jeannot was
thrilled, delighted with the Untergunther’s ingenuity, marvelling at
their secret workshop and horological handiwork. Monnet was less
enthused. Still, everything seemed set for the clock to be mounted,
for it to resume functioning—except that it didn’t. Weeks passed. The
administration, UXallege, did not want to reveal their failure to
maintain the clock, or the way it had been restored.
     With real sorrow in his voice, Kunstmann confesses they
“misjudged the internal tensions that ruled at the CNM [the
organization responsible for Paris’s monuments] and the administration
of the Panthéon. How different interests would exploit this affair to
pursue their own agendas.” Shortly after the UGWK was revealed,
Bernard Jeannot left—or was forced out of—his job. Monnet ascended to
the top seat. “That was the defeat,” Kunstmann says. “That was the
fuck-up. That we underestimated these factors.”
     It was an oddly naïve mistake. Most citizens of Paris—indeed,
most citizens of the world—know to never underestimate the
hopelessness of their bureaucrats. Blinded by their own panache, UX
assumed their work would be embraced by the people they shamed.
Instead, two months later, the clock still had not been mounted.
     The Untergunther are usually content for their restorations to
remain hidden, but they were curious about their Panthéon handiwork.
UX did not know whether their repair job had even been successful.
They decided to test it on a day when the Panthéon was closed. The
options were few—Christmas Eve, New Year’s Day, May 1.
     On December 24, the Untergunther once again slipped past security
and into the building. They mounted the clock. It began to chime. The
mechanism was found to lose less than one minute per day—Viot deemed
it “acceptable.”
     But when Monnet returned from his holiday, he marched up the
Panthéon’s steps and gazed furiously at the tick-tick-ticking
timepiece. He called a clockmaker to unmake the clock. The man who
came, reportedly from the Maison Lepaute, refused to sabotage the
mechanism. Instead, he removed the escapement wheel—the same piece
damaged those decades before, rebuilt by Viot. At 10:51, the Wagner
mechanism stopped.
     Kunstmann is still livid. “The notion of conservation, the value
of the objects in Monnet’s care, don’t concern him. He thinks only of
his career, to have a good retirement.”
     I write to Monnet, asking for his version of events. The Panthéon
administrator responds in an unmistakeable tone: “I absolutely refuse
to discuss this file. It is part of an active case and the law
prohibits me from commenting.”
     After the story of the clock repair broke, journalists
swarmed—and Kunstmann once again came forward, revealing all.
“Underground ‘terrorists’ with a mission to save city’s neglected
heritage,” shrieked theTimes of London’s headline. Monnet agreed with
this characterization, pursuing the Untergunther in court. But there
was one problem: they didn’t seem to have committed a crime. Nothing
was damaged during the Untergunther’s stay at the Panthéon, and at the
time there was no such thing as “trespassing” on public property.
(This has since been rectified, with a bill passed in December 2008.)
Authorities had to wait almost an entire year before finding a reason
to bring UX in.
     On August 14, 2007, Panthéon security claimed to find four
members trying to force the building’s locks. The case was heard on
November 23, 2007, before the 17th Chambre du Tribunal de Grande
Instance. TheCNM sought a total of €51,394.76 for damage to public
property. The accused: Sophie Langlade (surely Lanso, the
Untergunther’s leader), thirty-five, unemployed; Dorothée Hachette,
thirty-nine, nurse; Christophe Melli, thirty-eight, artistic director;
Eric Valleye, thirty-eight, filmmaker. Four members of Untergunther,
revealed before the court.
     “A real experiment never presumes its results,” Kunstmann says.
“If someone had asked us, ‘What are the chances that one day you will
appear in court to talk about the repair of the clock?’ We would have
said, ‘Zero per cent? One per cent?’ The improbable is still within
the realm of the possible.”
     The charges were ultimately dismissed. Kunstmann says UX took
back the removed escapement wheel, stealing it from Monnet’s
office.LMDP claim to have used the Panthéon for another full year,
staging photo exhibits and a festival of police films. And the clock?
“[It] is simply waiting for its chance to run again,” Kunstmann told
The Architects’ Journal.
     The way that Untergunther tell it, this acquittal was inevitable.
UX’s members are so clever, after all. They are so sophisticated. They
are a world away from hoi polloi like Crato, caught in the catacombs
and awaiting presidential amnesty. UX are not Ravioli. And you would
certainly never see Kunstmann in the same room as the Painted Lizard.

La-zar Kunst-mann

The Painted Lizard, wrote American journalist Christopher Ketcham, is
“one of the nastiest pranksters in the underworld.” Cavannus, a former
Parisian now living in Montreal, says something similar: “Dangerous.
To avoid.” Another catacomb rat goes further. “The guy’s a
megalomaniacal jerk and deserves no publicity of any kind,” G——wrote
in an email, asking that I not use his name. “He is a lesser human
being.”
     Ketcham recalls seeing a photograph of the Lézard (and a black
friend) in Nazi SS uniforms, “singing old German war songs at full
throttle, stomping through the tunnels, sieg heiling, the songs
echoing down the halls for a half-mile.” He’s a fascist, G—— tells me.
“In the 1990s him and another guy going by the name of Ktu used to
beat people up. They had the network shared, one ‘gang’ held the
south, the other the north. . . . Idiots are in awe of him because he
can break into anywhere [but] an asshole is always an asshole.”
     I obtain the Untergunther’s court records less than a week after
my visit to the catacombs. I Google the names—Sophie Langlade,
Dorothée Hachette, Christophe Melli, Eric Valleye. Slim pickings,
except for Valleye. He is named in Ketcham’s 2002 article for Salon.
Valleye, Ketcham writes, is the real name of the Lézard Peint.
     “We dress up as Nazis, sure,” the Lizard said, “but we have no
politics, none whatsoever. This is all . . . theater. A game of
transformations, masks.”
     I consider the Lizard, reformed, assisting the patient restorers
of the Panthéon’s clock. Perhaps he met them below ground. And then
suddenly the darkness slips into focus. Lazar, after all, sounds an
awful lot like Lézard. Kunstmann, the German word “art-man.” Lazar
Kunstmann—Lézard art-man?
     After that, I’m running. I dig into the Untergunther website,
UGWK.org. I discover the site’s files reside on a different server,
and I note the URL: http://web.mac.com/peint/UGWK.
     I scour cataphile forums for photographs of the Lizard, search
Flickr. Most photographers lack UX’s discretion. I find the Lizard,
head bowed, in a series of subterranean snaps. It is the same man with
whom I clinked glasses at Le Pantalon.
     When I go back to speak to BVH, his ankle has healed. I ask the
question whose answer he neglected to volunteer last time. Yes, the
cataphile admits, “Lazar and Lézard Peint are the same single person.”
     I do not know how to feel. Thrilled by my discovery? Proud of my
detective skills? Or utterly deflated, imagining UX as an asshole’s
practical joke? It is as if I am back underground. This time I have no
leader.
     “Lazar always had a group of friends, but they didn’t
particularly have a name,” BVH says. He suggests they adopted the name
LMDP after the discovery of the cinema, Untergunther after the
discovery of the clock, UX after the publication of his book. Whereas
UX claim to have more than a hundred members, BVH and Cavannus guess
that “Kunstmann’s group” are no more than twenty. The Untergunther say
they have completed a dozen different projects, LMDP to have hosted
dozens of events, but there’s scant evidence. Perhaps it is because
these actions were secret. Or perhaps they didn’t happen.
     BVH points to another sign of obfuscation in Kunstmann’s book.
The volume is peppered with comic relief courtesy of Olrik and Peter,
UX’s goofy, incompetent jester duo. Olrik is real, well known
underground. But Peter? “He is maybe Lazar,” bhv supposes. “I looked
into it. It might be him.” Peter, I note, is the French word for
farting.
     At that noisy, crowded bar, as I set a pint of Leffe before him,
Kunstmann had confessed that he sometimes “gives simple answers to
questions that deserve complicated ones.” Months later, I
contemplateUX as a tall tale, an exaggeration, the invention of an
arrogant catacomb trickster. And yet the truth still feels just out of
reach, beyond the beam of my flashlight. It is as if I can hear the
footfalls.

Misdirection

Almost a month after our meeting, I confront Lazar Kunstmann (a.k.a.
Lézard Peint, a.k.a. Eric Valleye) over email. Fifteen hours later, I
receive a reply. Kunstmann says the Painted Lizard does not exist. He
claims that this character’s reputation is intentional, invented, part
of a concentrated effort to muddle perceptions of UX. Stories of
villainous cataphiles quickly take over the discourse, masking any
other activities. I am reminded of a comment he made at the bar that
night. “A secret launches any information,” he said, leaning forward
in his chair. “It’s a very simple principle. ‘I’m going to tell you
something. It’s a secret—above all don’t tell it to anyone.’ You will
see two other people and say to them, ‘I’m going to tell you
something. It’s a secret—above all don’t tell it to anyone.’ In four
seconds, everybody knows.” The greater the tale, the bigger the
lizard, the faster word spreads.
     Kunstmann admits that one “operation,” between 1985 and 1987,
“was mildly violent”—but never, he insists, “physically violent.” “For
a Ravioli,” he writes, “anything outside of routine is psychologically
violent.” He does concede that one of Ktu’s friends might have knocked
some heads.
     And then I receive a message from Lanso. This is unexpected. The
head of the Untergunther does not relish the spotlight, hasn’t written
any books, never talks to journalists. She has not contacted me
before. “I know that [catacomb adventures] are very entertaining to
foreign readers,” she writes, her verbiage precise. “It’s the
exoticism of ‘subterranean Paris.’ But it’s not what defines [UX]. We
are people who realize projects without asking permission. That’s
all.”
     From there, Lanso acknowledges that UX’s cast of regulars, the
nicknames most often cited, may now seem like mischievous cataphiles.
But she says these are part of a “media group” led by Kunstmann—a team
meant to dazzle and distract the press, mesmerizing us with catacomb
talk.
     “The small world of the catacombs, which is apparently your place
of departure, easily amplifies the importance of Lazar’s band of
rascals,” Lansar writes. “Lazar is a good spokesman . . . but all of
the intox and [media] diversions that he has been able to do, he and
his friends, both in the press and [among cataphiles], gets linked to
our activities, which they have nothing to do with.” Kunstmann is an
important member, Lanso admits, but the Untergunther and most of the
rest of UX “have nothing to do with ‘cataphiles,’ nor even the
catacombs. Nothing to do with Ravioli forums nor the beliefs and myths
of these places. Nothing to do with the dozens of confusing articles
conceived by Lazar and his cohorts between 1985 and 2004. Nothing to
do with the folklore of the Latin Quarter so dear to the
previously-mentioned.”
     Kunstmann’s tales, the activities he recounts, the cataphile
culture he invokes—it is, Lanso suggests, a fumis. It is smoke. It is
the smoke that fills our vision, fills newspaper pages, conceals the
group’s true projects and real work.
     Look to the Untergunther website, available in French and
English, a kind of souped-up press release, useful documents for
journalists. Look to Zone Tour, maintained by Olrik and Kunstmann,
ostensibly a website for Paris cataphiles but purely in English. Look
to an article in Zurbanmagazine, two years before the “restoration
wing” of UX announced themselves. There are the “Untergunther,” doing
nothing more than run-of-the-mill culture jamming, changing George V
subway station signs to George W. Fog, smoke, misdirection.
     As for what this “real work” is, Lanso will not say. These
projects, she underlines, are secret. “Don’t think that I say this
against you, or against journalists in general. It’s the same for
everyone. To be able to do what we do, this is how it has to work.”
     I have reached a dead end. Lanso’s secrets are tantalizing, but I
can neither confirm nor deny them. UX’s deepest riddles cannot be
Googled. The question I ask is, Do I believe them? And then I ask, Do
I want to believe them? And then I know my answer.

Exits

Despite their unassailable secrecy, UX still have something to offer
the rest of us trapped on the far side of the smokescreen. Kunstmann
talked about this as we finished our beers that night. “Over time,” he
said, “I’ve noticed that the principal reason that UX completes its
projects is that we dismiss past inhibitions.”
     The organization simply tries things. If one idea doesn’t work,
they move on to the next. And whereas doubt inhibits, precedents
inspire new experiments. “If someone says tomorrow, ‘Ah, I’d love to
fly across the Atlantic,’ no one would say, ‘It’s impossible! It will
never work!’” Kunstmann said. “If it’s already been created, it must
be possible to recreate.”
     We cannot join UX. They will not tell us who they are, or what
lies at the heart of the maze. But we can do as they did. We can make
our own maps.

(From Brick 85, used by permission of the author)